I should have them back in stock sometime next week. Once I'm done with the titanium Mini and Baby Ti II brakes I'll make more of those. Once all of that is done I'll work on the Cheytac brake testing and then release of the Cheytac brakes.Ĭurrently the only brake I'm out of is a 5 port 3/4x24 Big Beast II. I will also do a test with all of those calibers combined with a 243 Win, 6.5CM, and 308 Win so people can see what a larger magnum with a brake recoils like. I intend to test a 6.5PRC, 7RM, 28 Nosler, 300wm, 300PRC. I have several new brakes from my competitors and I will do a massive comparison test between all my brakes and all of the brakes I have from my competitors. In addition I will do a 1 port, 2 port, 3 port, 4 port, and 5 port comparison. I will also do a similar test on a 6.5PRC at a later date. I'm also going to test where the caliber drop off point is. I have about 20 test brakes to see if I can come up with a more effective port design before launching the nitrided brakes.
I've been working hard on getting all my testing barrels and brakes set up recently. The caps are smooth so there isn't a way to get it back off if this happens. The reason why I recommend adding it inside the threads rather than on the barrel threads is to keep it from being pushed back against the barrel shoulder and potentially seizing the cap against the barrel shoulder or having the Loctite leak into the cap threads and seize it on the brake. I would put a drop of blue Loctite inside the brake threads. I decided to do it with a recommendation to use Loctite rather than wrenching the brake hard to time it. It's rather easy to distort the barrel with over tightening a brake. As a note : The Kimber barrel walls are extremely thin and because of that I wasn't going to do self timed 7/16x28 brakes. I'm also going to make some Baby Ti Beast II brakes in 7/16x28. These will be 2.5" long and weigh about 1.0 to 1.1oz. I'm currently working on Mini Ti Beast brakes in 7/16x28, 1/2x28, and 9/16x24.
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